I had this conversation with more than a few of my friends before I visited the Cambod-Ican Kitchen in the South Side: "Yeah, I'm going to the Cambod-Ican Kitchen. No, not 'Cambodian.' Yes, I know, the country is Cambodia, but that's the name of the restaurant. No, I don't know why." It was only after I got there that I realized that it was short for "Cambodian-American." The dishes are clearly aimed at American eaters: the ever-popular Fried Rice and Fried Noodles show up on the menu, as well as traditional Americanized pseudo-Asian dishes like Cashew Chicken, Egg Rolls, Beef with Broccoli, and (gasp) General Tso's Chicken. But the Cambod-Ican Kitchen is no greasy, bottom-dollar, fast-food Asian restaurant. The food has enough flavor and unique flair to dispel any thoughts of white take-out boxes and fortune cookies.

To understand the Cambod-Ican Kitchen, one has to know a bit about its history. As a visit to their website shows, the Cambod-Ican Kitchen used to be called "Cambodican Cookery." It was located inside a truck (much like the food trucks on Margaret Morrison Avenue) next to Nakama, another South Side restaurant. Recently, the owners were forced to move the truck from that little lot, so they moved into their current restaurant space on the corner of 17th and Carson.

Now, to me, food trucks have always held a certain charm, and I was glad to see that the Cambod-Ican Kitchen lost none of that charm when it moved out of its truck. The walls are still partially barren, but it's obvious that they're trying to create a restaurant effect. The decorations that they have, such as a wooden mantle and some paintings of temples, are beautiful, and the overall effect is very casual and welcoming. There are also a couple of signs posted to notify visitors that, although the food may take some time, it's worth the wait. Also, "The Chicken Kabob REALLY IS CHICKEN," which a useful fact for those of you who are a little squeamish at the thought of street vendor food.

But all of the atmosphere would be worthless without good food. Luckily, the food is great! I ordered the Cambod-Ican Sampler Platter to try a few of their delicacies, while my friend ordered the Curried Vegetable Bowl. The Chicken Kabob (which REALLY IS CHICKEN) was the biggest hit from the sampler platter. For me, it recalled the Best Chicken-on-a-Stick I've Ever Had (a skewer of chicken teriyaki in Reno, Nevada, which also came from a street vendor), and that really says something. The Moon Sauce that the Cambod-Ican Kitchen uses on the kabobs, along with a lot of their other food, is fantastic; I wish I could buy a jar of it. The Shrimp Cake was another standout: a shrimp pate on a slice of toast, covered in Moon Sauce and deep-fried. The other appetizers, including fried wontons, a chicken wing, and an egg roll, weren't particularly notable; all in all, the sampler platter was a bit too much fried food and Moon Sauce for me. However, if you're looking for an appetizer or even a small meal, you can't go wrong with the Kabob or Shrimp Cake.

For those of you who may be a little more health-conscious (or at least have the foresight to look at what you're ordering before you get an entire plate of deep-fried appetizers), the Curried Vegetable Bowl is your ticket. The "tangy curry sauce" is an excellent mix of coconut flavors with just a bit of heat. Did I mention the prices? Most entrees at the Cambod-Ican Kitchen cost between $7 and $10. I'd expect to pay twice as much for a curry dish as good as theirs.

As I alluded to before, the menu is a little limited, and full of Americanized dishes like General Tso's Chicken. I suppose that's to be expected from a former truck, but still, I'd rather they had more innovative dishes and fewer variations on fried noodles and simple stir-fries. Also, the service is slow, as the sign says, and a bit awkward; you have to place your order at the counter. And make sure you go on the right day; their hours are not quite finalized, but they're closed on Monday, and sometimes Sunday too. But go anyway! The cheap, tasty eats and honest, hardworking spirit deserve a visit from anyone who appreciates delicious truck-style food.

Restaurant type: Cheap Cambodian
How to get there: Drive or take a 54C. It's at the corner of S. 17th and E. Carson Streets
Price for an entrée: $7-10
Rating: 8.0
Website: http://www.cambodicankitchen.com/

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